Eduardo De Simone - EDESIM⎟Neapolitan sartoria

"Vedi Napoli e poi muori" said Goethe. This roughly translates to "see Naples and die". The fascination for the Parthenopean city has been a vogue over the centuries. If in the 18th and 19th centuries it was the center of the « Grand Tour », an initiatory journey of aristocrats from all over Europe, the city declined in the 20th century. Tourists prefering the Eternal City or Florence and Venice, Naples was heavily marked by the Second World War and branded as a dirty, noisy and dangerous city. It is now experiencing a renaissance. Those who have already been to Naples can attest to the fact that this city has an incredible charm. The alleys, the inhabitants, the food and of course the sortarias by the hundreds. 

We offer you a journey in these narrow streets, this special atmosphere, thanks to Eduardo De Simone.

Let's take a look.

HISTORY

It was 1954 and Eduardo De Simone had just opened the "Edesim" sartoria in Naples. With the help of his family - his wife Carmela and his sons Vincenzo, Michele and Rino - the tailor shop became a flourishing industrial enterprise and worked for the most important European fashion brands.

In 2006 a new chapter began. Eduardo Jr. took over the company and redefined its identity. This is how the factory's own brand was born: Edesim. 

Edesim's range of products, which is rather rare for a clothing workshop, goes from made-to-measure suits to ready-to-wear and MTM. 

Edesim's jackets take on the characteristics of the Neapolitan school: they are unstructured, the shoulders are natural and the fabrics often have a certain British touch. 

An offer that is now available online. Because yes, Edesim has joined our long list of workshops that are known and recognized in the professional textile world but not yet sufficiently known by the end consumer. This workshop is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful companies in the world of costume making. A little jewel.

We had the opportunity to talk with Eduardo, who kindly accepted to answer some of our questions. We are pleased to reveal a short interview with Eduardo De Simone.

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How was the Eduardo De Simone brand born?

In honor of my grandfather Eduardo, whose name and surname I bear. I owe my love for this profession to him and my father.

What are your sources of inspiration?

I don't think we can talk about a source of inspiration, but the big brands I work for have certainly had an indirect influence on my vision of fashion.

Can you tell us how the jacket we are presenting is made? And the trousers?

The jacket is partly produced in a traditional construction that includes full interlining of the front of the jacket, hand stitching of the bottom of the jacket, placket, under collar, sleeve lining, buttonholes and buttons. The chest pocket is in "barchetta" and the pockets are reminiscent of the Pignatiello shape. Of course, we can also make the jacket entirely by hand, but this is only available for the Bespoke service.

Is "handmade in Italy" important in today's menswear landscape?

It is important being open to new things and therefore your work and craftsmanship evolve and are updated. A characteristic that I find intrinsic to the figure of the craftsman, always ready to take on new challenges, so I like to imagine myself as an entrepreneurial craftsman.

Finally, if you had to recommend an essential piece of clothing to have in your wardrobe, what would it be and why?

It's true that clothes don't make the man, but I believe that during the first 10 minutes of a date, whether romantic or business, the first impression is fundamental.

Grazie Eduardo !

HOW THE GARMENTS FEEL

We tried 2 pieces from Edesim. Obviously a jacket, in size 48. Its classic and elegant design is made of 100% wool Vitale Barberis Canonico of 240 gr/mt, which is perfect for Spring even if at the time of the photoshoot it was particularly cold!

The jacket looks and feels really good, it's completely unstructured and we really like this green and red/orange check which is quite uncommon.

It is a model "Zero" of the new capsule collection of Eduardo de Simone.

Main features:

• single breasted jacket 

• three-button roll two

• armhole "a camicia

• patch pockets

• double vents (something we prefer) 

• partly handmade in Naples

The second piece we tried on was a pair of sartorial denim trousers: this is the second time we've offered them on Les Indispensables and we're conquered. The first time was with Prologue. If historically denim is intended for a more casual use, we love here the overall formal rendering. Several models are proposed by Edesim. They are part of the new Zed collection made of a 10 oz blue denim cotton. 

According to the models, three styles are available:

• 1st style: Flat front, high waist and slightly slim fit 

• 2nd style: Traditional one pleat, medium waist and classic fit 

• 3rd style : Two pleats, medium size and straight cut : the one we tried

All three styles have a zipper fly, metal buttons and belt loops. 

The bottom comes unfinished so you can have it altered to your prefered length. 

We tried on a size 46. The waist was slightly tight, a 48 would probably have been more appropriate. But it doesn't matter because Edesim leaves enough cloth inside to gain a size.  As for the fit, the leg is wide enough to be comfortable without overdoing it. The right balance. 

In summary, these pieces are the perfect compromise between a casual and more dressed up wardrobe. A double rendering we really appreciate.

IN BRIEF

Naples sets home in Paris, but for good this time. EDS is one of those workshop brands that have a recognized know-how and, with the advent of the Internet, are trying to develop it as much as possible while focusing on what is their strength: high-end clothing offered at contained prices. 

At EDS, the product is king and its kingdom is Naples.

Archivio tie E. Marinella – Napoli

Note: At our request, Marinella agreed to send us the tie that you will discover in this article.

In an increasingly less formal world, it seems incongruous to wear a tie. Over time, this accessory has gradually become an emblem of sophistication among others. It's hard to defend wearing a tie at work when all your colleagues adopt open shirt collars - collars that are often far too short and that bend inwards - a pair of jeans and a very slim-fit blazer. A minority still wear a tie, sometimes out of obligation but mostly by choice. I fall into this second category. 

If you are not familiar with E. Marinella, you will discover the essence of tie-making. For those who know, you will only be able to nod and enjoy our photos. 

Let’s have a closer look. 

A Neapolitan Italianità proudly claimed

Much has been written and said about Naples - Napule in Neapolitan dialect. The Parthenopian city is a concentrate of tailor-made art in constant turmoil. Probably because of the nearby Vesuvius, which watches over rather than threatens the city. Those who have already had the chance to travel to this city will attest to its special atmosphere. 

In Naples, the inhabitants are not Italians, but Neapolitans firstly. The dialect and the Napoletano way of life irrigate daily relations. Naples is a concentrate of culture, football and tailoring know-how. 

At 287 Via Riviera Chiaia nestles a more than century-old shop, a true Neapolitan institution: E. Marinella. Although the store is only 20m2, its influence is worldwide. 

The house offers a selection of shirts, scarves, pocket squares, scarves, sweaters, berets, shoes and especially ties. An exceptional choice. The house was founded on June 26, 1914 when Don Eugenio realized his vision of a store that would be a mirror of the most elegant, inspired by the English Savile Row. If the overused term "sprezzatura" has been analysed and misunderstood, Eugenio Marinella defends sobriety in elegance: "never wear a sky-blue shirt at night or a bright red tie" are part of his precepts. 

Thanks to an article by the novelist and journalist Matilde Serao at the beginning of the century, Marinella's house gained importance and aroused Prince Humbert of Savoy’s curiosity, who personally went to the shop to buy elegant ties for his social outings. His uncle, Emmanuelle Filiberto, Duke of Aosta, used to spend whole afternoons there. 

Manufacturing

If we have not yet had the chance to visit the Marinella workshops, the brand is present every year at the Bon Marché Paris Rive Gauche during the Christmas holidays. Maurizio Marinella travels regularly in person, accompanied by two seamstresses who make custom-made ties on the spot.
On this occasion, we were able to see how a Marinella tie is assembled in the best possible way. As an example, the structure of the tie - the seam that closes the tie along its length - is assembled by hand. This is the only way to guarantee an exceptional hand and longevity of the tie. 

A piece of fabric from the E collection. Marinella Archivio

The E. Marinella Archivio collection is a time machine. It allows you to (re)discover fabrics from the past. The opportunity to get your hands on real gems, treasures waiting to be unearthed. It is no chance the most illustrious men of the century wear them around their necks. 

The archivio brings together fabrics produced in the UK from the 1930s to the 1980s. The archive has over sixty designs in over two hundred colors that add to the house's already extensive collection. 

The archivio collection is therefore a real gift from E. Marinella, a gift to be worn without moderation proudly around the neck. 

I'm wearing a Vintage Marinella tie made from a fabric dating back to 1948. I wear it with a Prologue jacket and pants and a Camessi* shirt. The tie is a beautiful burgundy color with cream-colored medallions. It enlightens an outfit without obscuring it. 

*reviews to be discovered soon. 

Text : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Thomas M.

Vanacore Napoli

Vanacore Napoli

Napolitan Shirtmaker

”All roads lead to Rome” says the famous proverb, but one needs to “see Naples and die” said Goethe. The Parthenopean city, cradle to a thousand-year civilization, is today a phantasy for menswear enthusiasts.

These past ten years, France is home to a true “italopazzia” or “italomania”. Brands lurk opportunities to offer a garment with Neapolitan details, lacking the proper know-how. “Fatto in Italia” or the illustrious “fatto a mano a Napoli” are two guarantees of quality and style. In this modern jungle, it is sometimes difficult to find new Italian brands which offer true quality with traditional values. The young shirt-maker Vanacore Napoli is one of those brands which deserve to get out of this jungle.

Story of Vanacore Napoli

Vanacore was founded in 2010 in Portici, a few feet from the Vesuvius, thanks to the Nunziata family vision. The shirt maker springs from a long line of local sartorial tradition, but has nothing to envy from its elders.

The shirts are from illustrious cloth mills such as Monti, Canclini or even Albini. Vanacore’s website is rather cursory but their social media presence – especially on Instagram – is quite on point.

Vanacore’s true values are attention to detail with nothing being left randomly: the shirts have up to 9 hand-stitched steps, that is the moment where the hand replaces a sewing machine.

A white: the epitomes of a men’s wardrobe

This young brands’ ambition is to offer the best quality for both a casual and a more business type wardrobe, may it be with cloths such as popeline, linen and even denim.

Together with the “pasta della Nonna”, traditions in Italy are no joke: Vanacore makes it possible for a young new clientele to be able to gain access to such precious know-how, without hurting one’s wallet.

Before I review the shirt, it is important I take a short detour and mention the cloth I chose: denim

Pictures from Vanacore’s atelier

Brief history of denim and the color indigo

A classic denim fabric

Denim is a twill cotton cloth which uses two distinctive colors in the yarning process. Its’ French origin – “sergé de Nîmes” – is somewhat argued upon, but its’ robustness is legendary. In the 18th century, French weavers try to reproduce a robust cloth named “jeane” – from Genova, Italy – but instead invented sergé de Nimes, thanks to a combination of wool and silk.

The very tight weave is made from a warp originally dyed blue and an unbleached or white weft. The weft threads are interlaced at a 90-degree angle with the other threads. The weave pattern, consists of three weft threads running underneath a warp thread and then a weft thread running over the warp. Shifting this pattern over four threads leads to visible diagonal lines characteristic of twill.

Indigo. The color that characterizes denim, one of the oldest colors still produced. It means "Indian" or "from India". The pigments are native to India and date back to 3300 B.C. A natural extract of indigofera tinctorial plant, indigo is obtained following a particular process of fermentation of the plant's enzymes in water - called indoxyl - which change from yellow to indigo blue when dried.

Indigo flooded the Old Continent following the Indian voyages of the Portuguese navigator Vasco de Gama in 1497. It was only in 1865 the German chemist, Adolf Von Baeyer began to search for the formula for synthesizing indigo. He succeeded in 1883, thus wide spreading its’ use around the world.

Review of the shirt

I discovered Vanacore thanks to – once again – Instagram. After a post featuring Nicola Radano, founder of Spacca Neapolis ties – wearing a blue denim shirt from the Neapolitan brand.

I was immediately won over by the deep blue shade of the shirt and especially by its generous button-down collar. I decide to reach out to the brand and I am informed that for 160 € (including shipping costs for France), it is possible to make a shirt in remote made-to-measure (see my article on Shirtonomy for the explanation). Vanacore's website only reveals the tip of the iceberg: the company offers numerous fabrics, shirt styles and a high-level of personalization.

The ordering process is very simple, as Salvatore Nunziata – one of the founders – was a big help in explaining the different stages and recommendations for the confection of the shirt. This attention to detail is what renders the experience more human and professional.

Here are the characteristics of the shirt.

• The armhole: fitted with a “mappina” – or “spalla camicia” – style shoulder, this is the one the most distinguishable Neapolitan features a shirt can have. the tailoring seam, exalted by manual stitches, allows for a unique and robust confection.

• The collar: I chose a button-down which gives the shirt a more casual vibe. The “rollino” effect is absolutely staggering: a perfect “S” silhouette.

• The yoke: the manual seam of the shoulders resolves the tension in one of the most critical points. An operation that guarantees extreme softness and robustness, this is a sign of a well handcrafted shirt.

• The cuff: these are also hand-made, with 10 stitch-points to the centimeter! A wonderful detail.

• The placket: the hand riveting of the placket represents a touch of great value of which this shirt contains.

• The buttonholes: very neatly handcrafted!

• The buttons: they are in a beautiful brown-shade of mother-of-pearl, white ones would have contrasted too thoroughly with indigo. They are sewed in a “ricamo a giglio” or “zampa di gallina” pattern, this can only be done by hand – a sign of high craftsmanship.

• The sleeve gauntlet or “travetto”: it is a reinforcement in the form of a hook stitch, at the level of the capuchin paw (a paw that starts at the wrist and generally ends in the middle of the forearm). It is executed by hand, which is almost non-existent in ready-to-wear clothing.

• The gusset: a small triangle that joins together the two parts - front and back - of the shirt, guaranteeing its sturdiness.

All these handcrafted stitches render this shirt a truly unique piece.

Regarding the fit, it is very comfortable and allows me to easily execute large and continuous movements. Vanacore considers the fact that denim might shrink a few millimeters after a first wash, so you don't end up with a shirt that is too tight and has lost its original shape.

Conclusion

The Vanacore button-down denim shirt is a unique piece of Italian and especially Neapolitan craftsmanship. This shirt won't remain immaculate for long: with successive washings - always on a delicate program and never in the tumble dryer - it will gain a wonderful patina and will thus reveal the splendor of the indigo denim fabric.

Although denim is a casual cloth by essence, nothing prevents you from wearing this shirt with a tie, the Italian way.
Finally, I would like to point out that Vanacore offers a wide range of styles as well as shirt fabrics, not all of which can be found on their website. Simply contact them - by email or via Instagram - to find out more.

I can only recommend Vanacore to anyone who wants a taste of a real Neapolitan shirt, "fatta a Napoli".