"Vedi Napoli e poi muori" said Goethe. This roughly translates to "see Naples and die". The fascination for the Parthenopean city has been a vogue over the centuries. If in the 18th and 19th centuries it was the center of the « Grand Tour », an initiatory journey of aristocrats from all over Europe, the city declined in the 20th century. Tourists prefering the Eternal City or Florence and Venice, Naples was heavily marked by the Second World War and branded as a dirty, noisy and dangerous city. It is now experiencing a renaissance. Those who have already been to Naples can attest to the fact that this city has an incredible charm. The alleys, the inhabitants, the food and of course the sortarias by the hundreds.

We offer you a journey in these narrow streets, this special atmosphere, thanks to Eduardo De Simone.

Let's take a look.

HISTORY

It was 1954 and Eduardo De Simone had just opened the "Edesim" sartoria in Naples. With the help of his family - his wife Carmela and his sons Vincenzo, Michele and Rino - the tailor shop became a flourishing industrial enterprise and worked for the most important European fashion brands.

In 2006 a new chapter began. Eduardo Jr. took over the company and redefined its identity. This is how the factory's own brand was born: Edesim.

Edesim's range of products, which is rather rare for a clothing workshop, goes from made-to-measure suits to ready-to-wear and MTM.

Edesim's jackets take on the characteristics of the Neapolitan school: they are unstructured, the shoulders are natural and the fabrics often have a certain British touch.

An offer that is now available online. Because yes, Edesim has joined our long list of workshops that are known and recognized in the professional textile world but not yet sufficiently known by the end consumer. This workshop is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful companies in the world of costume making. A little jewel.

We had the opportunity to talk with Eduardo, who kindly accepted to answer some of our questions. We are pleased to reveal a short interview with Eduardo De Simone.

How was the Eduardo De Simone brand born?

In honor of my grandfather Eduardo, whose name and surname I bear. I owe my love for this profession to him and my father.

What are your sources of inspiration?

I don't think we can talk about a source of inspiration, but the big brands I work for have certainly had an indirect influence on my vision of fashion.

Can you tell us how the jacket we are presenting is made? And the trousers?

The jacket is partly produced in a traditional construction that includes full interlining of the front of the jacket, hand stitching of the bottom of the jacket, placket, under collar, sleeve lining, buttonholes and buttons. The chest pocket is in "barchetta" and the pockets are reminiscent of the Pignatiello shape. Of course, we can also make the jacket entirely by hand, but this is only available for the Bespoke service.

Is "handmade in Italy" important in today's menswear landscape?

It is important being open to new things and therefore your work and craftsmanship evolve and are updated. A characteristic that I find intrinsic to the figure of the craftsman, always ready to take on new challenges, so I like to imagine myself as an entrepreneurial craftsman.

Finally, if you had to recommend an essential piece of clothing to have in your wardrobe, what would it be and why?

It's true that clothes don't make the man, but I believe that during the first 10 minutes of a date, whether romantic or business, the first impression is fundamental.

Grazie Eduardo !

HOW THE GARMENTS FEEL

We tried 2 pieces from Edesim. Obviously a jacket, in size 48. Its classic and elegant design is made of 100% wool Vitale Barberis Canonico of 240 gr/mt, which is perfect for Spring even if at the time of the photoshoot it was particularly cold!

The jacket looks and feels really good, it's completely unstructured and we really like this green and red/orange check which is quite uncommon.

It is a model "Zero" of the new capsule collection of Eduardo de Simone.

Main features:

single breasted jacket

three-button roll two

armhole "a camicia

patch pockets

double vents (something we prefer)

partly handmade in Naples

The second piece we tried on was a pair of sartorial denim trousers: this is the second time we've offered them on Les Indispensables and we're conquered. The first time was with Prologue. If historically denim is intended for a more casual use, we love here the overall formal rendering. Several models are proposed by Edesim. They are part of the new Zed collection made of a 10 oz blue denim cotton.

According to the models, three styles are available:

1st style: Flat front, high waist and slightly slim fit
2nd style: Traditional one pleat, medium waist and classic fit
3rd style : Two pleats, medium size and straight cut : the one we tried

All three styles have a zipper fly, metal buttons and belt loops.

The bottom comes unfinished so you can have it altered to your prefered length.

We tried on a size 46. The waist was slightly tight, a 48 would probably have been more appropriate. But it doesn't matter because Edesim leaves enough cloth inside to gain a size. As for the fit, the leg is wide enough to be comfortable without overdoing it. The right balance.

In summary, these pieces are the perfect compromise between a casual and more dressed up wardrobe. A double rendering we really appreciate.

IN BRIEF

Naples sets home in Paris, but for good this time. EDS is one of those workshop brands that have a recognized know-how and, with the advent of the Internet, are trying to develop it as much as possible while focusing on what is their strength: high-end clothing offered at contained prices.

At EDS, the product is king and its kingdom is Naples.

Note: At our request, Marinella agreed to send us the tie that you will discover in this article.

In an increasingly less formal world, it seems incongruous to wear a tie. Over time, this accessory has gradually become an emblem of sophistication among others. It's hard to defend wearing a tie at work when all your colleagues adopt open shirt collars - collars that are often far too short and that bend inwards - a pair of jeans and a very slim-fit blazer. A minority still wear a tie, sometimes out of obligation but mostly by choice. I fall into this second category.

If you are not familiar with E. Marinella, you will discover the essence of tie-making. For those who know, you will only be able to nod and enjoy our photos.

Let’s have a closer look.

A Neapolitan Italianità proudly claimed

Much has been written and said about Naples - Napule in Neapolitan dialect. The Parthenopian city is a concentrate of tailor-made art in constant turmoil. Probably because of the nearby Vesuvius, which watches over rather than threatens the city. Those who have already had the chance to travel to this city will attest to its special atmosphere.

In Naples, the inhabitants are not Italians, but Neapolitans firstly. The dialect and the Napoletano way of life irrigate daily relations. Naples is a concentrate of culture, football and tailoring know-how.

At 287 Via Riviera Chiaia nestles a more than century-old shop, a true Neapolitan institution: E. Marinella. Although the store is only 20m2, its influence is worldwide.

The house offers a selection of shirts, scarves, pocket squares, scarves, sweaters, berets, shoes and especially ties. An exceptional choice. The house was founded on June 26, 1914 when Don Eugenio realized his vision of a store that would be a mirror of the most elegant, inspired by the English Savile Row. If the overused term "sprezzatura" has been analysed and misunderstood, Eugenio Marinella defends sobriety in elegance: "never wear a sky-blue shirt at night or a bright red tie" are part of his precepts.

Thanks to an article by the novelist and journalist Matilde Serao at the beginning of the century, Marinella's house gained importance and aroused Prince Humbert of Savoy’s curiosity, who personally went to the shop to buy elegant ties for his social outings. His uncle, Emmanuelle Filiberto, Duke of Aosta, used to spend whole afternoons there.

Manufacturing

If we have not yet had the chance to visit the Marinella workshops, the brand is present every year at the Bon Marché Paris Rive Gauche during the Christmas holidays. Maurizio Marinella travels regularly in person, accompanied by two seamstresses who make custom-made ties on the spot.
On this occasion, we were able to see how a Marinella tie is assembled in the best possible way. As an example, the structure of the tie - the seam that closes the tie along its length - is assembled by hand. This is the only way to guarantee an exceptional hand and longevity of the tie.

A piece of fabric from the E collection. Marinella Archivio

The E. Marinella Archivio collection is a time machine. It allows you to (re)discover fabrics from the past. The opportunity to get your hands on real gems, treasures waiting to be unearthed. It is no chance the most illustrious men of the century wear them around their necks.

The archivio brings together fabrics produced in the UK from the 1930s to the 1980s. The archive has over sixty designs in over two hundred colors that add to the house's already extensive collection.

The archivio collection is therefore a real gift from E. Marinella, a gift to be worn without moderation proudly around the neck.

I'm wearing a Vintage Marinella tie made from a fabric dating back to 1948. I wear it with a Prologue jacket and pants and a Camessi* shirt. The tie is a beautiful burgundy color with cream-colored medallions. It enlightens an outfit without obscuring it.