McGeorge of Scotland – A Parisian lookbook

"Timeless Anarchic Luxury" can be read on some of the labels of the Scottish knitwear from McGeorge of Scotland. Since 1881, the brand has been offering pieces in wool, cashmere and cotton. Icons of style have worn McGeorge knits, from Steve McQueen to Grace Kelly, all have had their Aran cable sweater or shawl collar cardigan.

In its 1990 edition, the Japanese magazine Men's Club classified McGeorge as a "Status Brand" on a par with Rolex and Louis Vuitton. This is far from being a coincidence.

 

THE RED sweater MCGEORGE is stuck between J.M. Weston and gucci

 

We love knitwear and wear a piece almost every day. It was only logical for us to collaborate with a brand of the caliber of McGeorge.

We are pleased to offer you our lookbook of knitwear from the Scottish house. The 2 following pieces are both knitted in a very comfortable Super Geelong wool for everyday wear.

Please note that Mathieu wears a size M on all pieces.

McGeorge of Scotland - True Icons Never Die

 

You've probably already seen these two famous photos of Aran sweaters. On the first one, Steve Mcqueen during the shooting of the movie The Thomas Crown Affair. On the second one, Grace Kelly in 1950, in the bay of Monaco.

What brand are they wearing ? McGeorge of Scotland! Over the past 100 years, McGeorge has made a name for itself on the world market, including some of the most famous actors and actresses in history. One example is Jean-Luc Goddard's 1960s film, Blowout, where Jean Seberg wears an oversized McGeorge sweater.


History

In 1881, James McGeorge took over Robert Scott and Sons, a small family knitting shop in Dumfries, to create his own brand. The Future Museum South-West of Scotland website states that from 1885, "McGeorge specialised in the production of gloves on knitting machines designed and developed in their own factories. Further expansion took place from 1888 when the large factories on St. Michael Street became vacant and the McGeorge company moved its operations there. By 1902, the company also had a portion of the Nithsdale factories, where 700 to 800 workers, mostly young women, were employed. McGeorge also operated a glove factory in Sanquhar and other smaller units in the countryside around Dumfries." Over the years McGeorge became the largest hosiery company in Dumfries. It produced mainly cashmere, Shetland wool and cotton sweaters. It also specializes in intersia knitwear. McGeorge works both under white label - for luxury brands such as Lanvin, Burberrys, Sulka - and under its own brand.

Pull en cachemire Sulka fabriqué par McGeorge Image tumblr.com

a cashmere sulka sweater made by McGeorge
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Pull Lanvin par McGeorge Image tumblr.com

a lanvin sweater made by McGeorge
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Motif intersia fait à la main - sous entendu hand-framed Image tumblr.com

Hand intarsia for sulka hand-framed
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Pull Burberrys par McGeorge Image tumblr.com

a Burberrys sweater made by McGeorge
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McGeorge was later acquired by the Dawson International Group, which also owned other historic Scottish brands such as Braemar, Pringle of Scotland, Todd & Duncan and Barrie Knitwear.McGeorge closed its doors in the 1990s. It was only very recently, in 2017, that Lorenzo Borre and Simone Castronvo relaunched J&D McGeorge in Hawick with the support of the Scottish Borders Council and Scottish Development International. 20 skilled jobs have been created.


PRODUCTION

Not surprisingly, McGeorge of Scotland uses mainly Cotton Machines to knit its sweaters. Straight Bar Frame machines have been retained in a number of high-end workshops because of their smooth knitting and good productivity.

Remaillage manuel Image McGeorge of Scotland

hand knitting Image McGeorge of Scotland

The Bentley-Cotton Image McGeorge of Scotland

The Bentley-Cotton
Image McGeorge of Scotland

COLLECTIONS & DISTRIBUTION

McGeorge's collections are currently not easy to find. The Rake offered a selection last winter of cashmere sweaters - from Loro Piana - and Shetland wool. Another possibility via Oconnells Clothing. Or on Yoox. Good news, the McGeorge website was launched a few months ago and is slowly being operational offering MTO.

100% Shetland wool Image oconnellsclothing.com

100% Shetland wool
Image oconnellsclothing.com

Pull motif Argyle - 100% Shetland wool Image oconnellsclothing.com

Argyle - 100% Shetland wool
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100% Shetland wool Image oconnellsclothing.com

100% Shetland wool
Image oconnellsclothing.com

100% Shetland wool Image oconnellsclothing.com

100% Shetland wool
Image oconnellsclothing.com



LUND & LUND - Cashmere sweaters with raglan sleeves

 

The art historian Michel Pastoureau said of the color red that it "wants to be seen and is determined to impose itself on all others. It seems that red represents all the other colors, that it is the color.”  Red has a glorious past, it is the symbol of power, fire but also of blood. Therefore, it is a color shunned or even feared by some. In Russian, krasnoi means "red" but also "beautiful", so the "Red Square" in Moscow is literally "The Beautiful Square". By comparison, we are among those who believe that red must finds its way (back) into men's wardrobes. What better way to bring a little color into our outfits this winter?

It's always a challenge to launch your own clothing company, especially when it's a multi-brand store. How do you break away from the existing in-store offering and infuse your style? A challenge. Taken up by a Swedish store. Lund & Lund is a classic and contemporary men's fashion store located in Stockholm. They offer ready-to-wear clothes, mainly Italian brands, but also made-to-measure. Recently, we discovered their knitwear offer.

Here are two pieces to keep you warm this winter, both in cashmere with raglan sleeves.

Let’s have a closer look.

 

Lund & Lund, a Scandinavian success-story

The story of Lund & Lund begins in the late 1930s when two brothers Hans and Jesper Lund went abroad to learn the art of tailoring. Hans went to the United States while Jesper went to London to the famous tailor Anderson & Sheppard on Savile Row.

The brothers returned to their native Sweden in 1949 and opened their workshop Lund & Lund with a bespoke offer.

With the birth of ready-to-wear clothing in the 1950s, new opportunities arose and they renovated a classic British fashion store to sell their own selection in 1963.

The current store still looks like it did over fifty years ago.

 
 

A cashmere turtleneck you won’t find anywhere else

 We don't need to introduce you to the fine, silky fiber that is cashmere - expensive and precious - and extremely warm. 

Our leitmotiv this winter is the integration of more colors and patterns in our outfits. That's why we opted for a very nice RED turtleneck – or rollneck – sweater. This color is bright and beautiful at the same time.

The model we wore is the "Simon" in 100% cashmere with raglan sleeves. To our knowledge, it is very rare to find them in ready-to-wear.

By now, you know our love for raglan sleeves dear reader, how can you not be won over by this exquisite detail? The comfort is immediate. The turtleneck stands up straight, and the movement of the arms is liberated.

This model is slim fit and cut a little shorter than normal, we opted for a size 48 - the smallest size offered. 

 
 

A striking cashmere crew-neck

What about the color navy? A men's wardrobe essential we say! But how do you make this color a little more exciting?

Lund & Lund found the answer with a cashmere crew-neck sweater with raglan sleeves. The "Samuel" model has the same characteristics as its cousin "Simon". If you like casual clothes but are looking for something different, this cashmere sweater with the look of a classic American cotton sweatshirt is a very good choice.

We basically like the construction of these two sweaters. The cashmere wool makes them luxurious and the raglan sleeve detail is a must. They have a fairly sportswear but chic line. Chic thanks to the cashmere but also to its very fine jersey knit which immediately gives it a dressier general appearance. They're great over a t-shirt, but also work over a shirt even though that's not the option we're most drawn to right now.

Note that these two pieces also exist in other colors. To discover the complete collection of Lund & Lund, visit their beautiful website. You'll find accessories, shirts, sweaters, and ties with great taste.

 
 
 

COLHAY'S - The heavy-weight knitted cardigan made in Scotland

COLHAY’S

The heavy-weight knitted cardigan made in Scotland

 

October 4th, 1853, the Crimean War broke out and tore Europe apart. The Turkish, French and English belligerent forces unite against Russian expansionism. Considered as the first real "modern war" in history, it allowed the massive use of new technologies such as steamships, the telegraph, rifled guns and especially photography. The first war photographers – the ancestors of war reporters – were born from this war, thanks to Roger Fenton and James Robertson. Embarked in his photographic van, Fenton undertook a perilous journey in 1855 towards Crimea. Assisted by his cook and assistant, Marcus Sparling, they crisscrossed the battlefields in his “photographic van” acting as a mobile darkroom loaded with glass material for developing photos. If the war annihilates, it also creates new things. On the battlefield, a clothing opposition took place. James Thomas Brudenell, Lieutenant General of the British Empire and 7th Earl of Cardigan, had the idea of dressing his soldiers in a warm piece of knitwear derived from the military undergarment during the victorious assault on the battle of Balaklava on October 25, 1854. Lord Cardigan had just invented the cardigan.

James Thomas Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, known as Lord Cardigan (1797-1868)

Of this military heritage there is not much left – except the possibility of declining it in a technical material – the cardigan is a piece so anchored in the modern stylistic habits, that it became essential in the coherence of certain outfits. That's why today's brands offer their version of the cardigan. 

We’d like for you to discover COLHAY'S version, a heavy-weight knitted cardigan made in Scotland in the purest British tradition.

Let's have a closer look.

Interview with the founder, Ronnie Chiu

To understand a brand – especially a young one like Colhay's born in 2019 – we think it is always interesting to turn to the person who founded it. That's why we asked Ronnie a few questions. His vision of clothing is precise and classic, take inspiration from his words!

 1. Was Colhay’s born out of frustration you could not find wool garments you were looking for ?

In a way, yes, but the inspiration behind Colhay’s runs deeper than that. My father worked his whole life in the fashion industry, first in menswear in the 1970s then started his own fashion jewelry and accessories business. Growing up, I would visit his workplace and remember seeing piles of fashion magazines on his big oak desk, and thousands of samples hung on walls and strewn across his showroom. As a result, from a young age, my father had a big influence on me style-wise; he was a “cool” dad and dressed immaculately; one of those fathers who always had something to say about the outfit I was wearing and either nodded approvingly or frowned disapprovingly! I remember going shopping together and he’d give me all manner of styling advice, as you’d expect of a father working in fashion. So my love and interest in clothes came from him and it is no surprise that I ended up going into menswear. Perhaps the biggest mark he left on me was his belief in investing in the highest quality clothing, taking care of it for a long time, because it’ll then take care of you. 

In particular, he held a strong belief that British made clothing is the highest quality and worth the investment, being somebody who grew up in British colonial Hong Kong. He passed on to me two made in Scotland sweaters that he bought with his first paycheck in the 1970s, in pristine condition after some 40+ years of wear and hand washing. I was so impressed by the quality that I went on a hunt to find the same quality of sweaters that my father spoke so fondly of, but struggled to find that same level of quality of which would, at the same time, designed to flatter the wearer – if the quality was there, the style was not; and vice versa. I eventually found the town in Scotland where my father’s sweaters were made all those years ago. Some of the manufacturers remain, although much smaller, are still making to the same quality as they were when they made my father’s sweaters all those years ago. In fact, one of the factory managers recognized the label on my father’s sweater right away and joked he probably helped make the sweater when he was a young guy 40 years ago!

That’s how Colhay’s was born – the idea is to combine heirloom quality (garments that last a lifetime) with an aesthetic and design that would flatter the wearer. Contemporary, yes, but it’s really about creating garments that last decades, whilst ensuring that they make the wearer look good for the modern age! As a result, I spend a lot of time designing and redesigning the smallest details – how slim the waist or ribbed hems should be, how the collar should sit on a garment. I spend a lot of time also on colours and patterns – to balance between making the wearer look stylish, whilst being elegant at the same time, so that he doesn’t attract unwanted attention!

For example, our superfine lambswool cricket sweater has a v neck trim that is deliberately cut deeper, and also made in very dark burgundy, olive, navy, cream stripes. I believe these design details flatter the wearer a lot more, makes the garment look more modern and relevant, compared to very traditional cricket sweaters with much brighter colours, and tighter, small v necks. Every one of our products in our range follows the same philosophy.

 

2. We’ve been witnessing a staggering comeback of the cardigan these past 2 years. In what way did you try to change or compose with the « elderly » image the garment has for some people?

Good question! The cardigan is a great garment – it has that nonchalant feel to it. It’s extremely comfortable and just about goes with any outfit. Given this, it is no surprise that the cardigan is a favorite style of ours as well. As I mentioned above, with any product, we want to make sure that the garment flatters the wearer, and there are some design elements that help make the piece look more modern to shake that “elderly” image. For example, with our newest cashmere painter’s shawl collar cardigan, we deepened the v shape of the shawl collar by lowering the buttoning point so that it sits just on the belly button. This exaggerates the inverted v shape from the shoulder to the waist (like a tailored jacket), and broadens the shoulders whilst slimming down the waist. The shawl collar, when folded down, also copies the “lapel roll” you get on a high quality canvassed tailored jacket:

 

The other thing we like to do is to show people how these garments can be styled as part of a contemporary outfit, for example, the shawl collar cardigan can be layered over a distressed vintage denim jacket:

 

On your second question below, I would also add that we have a whole section in our website entitled Style Journal where we have done a number of photo journals to give people tips on some great ways to style our knitwear - some of the combinations may not be so obvious but look great in our view: https://colhays.com/blogs/style-journal

3. Where do you draw your inspiration from?

We draw inspiration from a lot of historical garments, many of which were originally created out of function. Most pieces of knitwear once had a purpose that required them to be sturdy, comfortable and long-lasting all at the same time. Often when pieces are redesigned over and over, the functionality can be lost in favour of aesthetics – a lot of the time; we try to bring back that functionality, but making some design tweaks to make it more contemporary.

The merino henley shirt is a good example of this. We took the traditional shape of the original henley shirt with its longer short sleeves, fitted silhouette for a sporty look and the three-button opening on the front. However, we made cut the v neck opening deeper, in contrast to the more rounded opening of the traditional henley shirt, so as to make the overall look more modern.

 

Left: Colhay’s extra fine merino henley shirt with deep v neck

Right: traditional henley shirt with rounded collar (as worn by British rowing legend Jack Beresford)

 

We wrote an article with a few more examples that you can check out: https://colhays.com/blogs/news-and-insights/reinventing-the-classics

4. What is your go-to wool garment for Winter?

For me the superfine lambswool shawl collar cardigan is hard to beat. It is the thickest and heaviest garment in our range, weighing in around 1.2 kilograms, and yet, it is super soft against the skin, because it is made using superfine lambswool (the world’s softest lambswool, with the fibres around 18.5 microns in diameter), and washed in Scottish water for softness. Usually with knitwear, if it is chunky, it is usually rough; if it is soft, it is usually thin and flimsy. With this superfine lambswool shawl collar cardigan, you get the best of both words: chunky yet soft. I love how cosy and comfortable it is, great for wearing indoors and outdoors, and it’s so easy to style – I personally favour a double denim combination with the ecru shawl collar, like this:

 
 

Thanks Ronnie!

 

How do we wear the Colhay's cardigan?

This shawl collar cardigan is made of 100% superfine lambswool from Todd & Duncan's Lamaine, a legendary Scottish cashmere yarn spinner dating back to 1867. Unsurprisingly, the cardigan is made in Hawick, known for its luxury knitwear. It was in Hawick that the “twin-set” concept was developed in the 1930s by Otto Weisz, chief designer of Pringle.

Our ecru cardigan is thick with an extra soft hand, knitted in 6-ply and 3 gauge, it weighs 1.2 kg, a beautiful baby! 

We especially like the generous, wrap-around collar. The piece is chunky – we can't stress this enough – but not overwhelmingly so, just right. Colhay's cardigan is reassuring we would say.

 
 

The horn buttons are from Italy, two side pockets keep your hands warm, raglan sleeves complete the look. You know our love for raglan sleeves by now, this detail is especially appreciated as it allows unparalleled freedom of movement while flattering a build. A perfect layering piece, this cardigan contains a higher armhole giving the ensemble a more contemporary fit without compromising the look of its wearer.

We like feeling comfortable in our clothes but we still advise you to opt for your usual size. Here Mathieu wears a Medium size. Colhay's sizing is normal.

We like the ecru color for its brightness but Colhay's offers this cardigan in other colors as well such as gray, camel, dark brown or olive.

 
 

A historical cardigan with a contemporary reinterpretation

Why choose this shawl collar cardigan from Colhay's? Because Ronnie is an enthusiast who has truly invested time in creating a classic yet contemporary cut. But also because for a ready-to-wear piece, the details present are almost impossible to find elsewhere. Lastly, for this superfine lambswool, absolutely incredible in softness.

We are by nature quite chilly, what better than to wrap ourselves in a soft wool to spend the winter in style?

Colhay's cardigan is a must-have, an indispensable piece in a man’s wardrobe.

 
 
 

Howlin'

 

Note: At our request, Howlin‘ agreed to send us the 2 sweaters that you will discover in this article.

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Howlin'

A creative knitwear brand

Text : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Thomas M.

 

Who has never smelt untreated virgin wool-made sweater ? If you've never had the opportunity to do so, do it as soon as possible. It is as if you are sniffing a whole flock of sheep: a characteristic smell. For some, unpleasant, for others not. I fall into the second category. This perfume transports me to distant Scottish lands, an almost reassuring odor. So when the two Belgian brothers Jan & Patrick Olyslager founded their sweater brand in 2008, they thumbed their nose at conventions by naming their brand Howlin', understand 'who smells bad' in Scottish slang. A real tour de force

Here are two sweaters from their beautiful collection with characteristic patterns. 


Let’s have a closer look. 

 

A story of locality

Howlin' is a Belgian brand specialized in knitwear for 40 years. It is both creative and respectful of know-how. This is finally what we like at Howlin', the association between modernity and tradition. That's why their Shetland wool sweaters are still knitted in Scotland and Ireland. The reason is simple: these two countries are the historical cradle of this type of knitwear. They have recognized know-how in this field. Why go elsewhere? 

T-shirts and sweatshirts are made in Belgium. Whenever possible the jersey is even knitted directly in the region. The tone is set: Howlin' likes to stay local and responsible. In a globalized World where everything goes so fast, the brand bets on slowness to promote quality. 

In terms of distribution, the brand is very well represented in the world. A hundred sellers! 

Two characteristic sweaters

The first sweater is a Shetland made of 100% Scottish wool. The piece is entirely knitted and finished by hand in Scotland. And like all the high-end counterparts knitted in Scotland, the sweater is seamless. In other words, there are no seams, all parts are connected together knit to knit. 

The sweater has a slightly oversized fit, ideal for wearing a shirt underneath or a thick t-shirt. It is also brushed, which gives it this wonderful shaggy look. 

The pattern is characteristic of the Shetland Islands. The story goes that it allowed sailors to be seen from afar by their companions, when they returned from a long stay at sea. Howlin' revives this heritage and offers a sweater completely adapted to the city or bucolic life. A sweater to do everything, in short. 

The biscuit color mixed with a white and brown spiked motif render the sweater both casual and striking. It wears perfectly with raw jeans. The advantage of a toned-down color piece is that it allows a wider and more extensive color combination. Do not hesitate for example to wear beautifully colored socks on your feet!
The sweater here is a size M for a desired oversize effect. 

 
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The second sweater is characteristic of an Irish cable-knit. These cable-knit sweaters have been flooding the clothing market for a few years now, to our great pleasure. No two cable-knit sweaters are alike: historically the patterns were chosen by the sailors’ wives and allowed them to have a family souvenir with them on their travels. Each design allowed for distinguishing sailors among them. 

The sweater is of a beautiful ecru color. As we said before, ecru is fantastic for Winter. It blends easily with everything and really makes it possible to illuminate an outfit by giving it style. 

The fit is generous. I should have probably opted for an S instead of an M, the thickness of the wool accentuating the oversize side - which is finally not at all unpleasant to the eye as well as to the wearer. The knit is thick and heavy, unlike the first sweater which has a spongy and light texture. 

It  has the same characteristics as its counterpart: knitted in 100% Scottish wool. The smell we were talking about in preamble is very subtly present, no doubt: this sweater is authentic. 

howlin

Authentic sweaters

These sweaters will you warm, thanks to them, you will spend a cozy Winter with style. What a beautiful brand and especially what beautiful designs! We greatly encourage you to visit the brand's eshop which offers pieces with characteristic Scottish and Irish patterns. Howlin' is a brand with flair, an authentic flair. 

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Merz b. Schwanen

 

Note : we asked the brand for the two garments in exchange for a full review.

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Merz b. Schwanen

Made in Germany

 
Texte : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Merz b Schwanen ; Thomas M.  
 
 

20. That is the number of white t-shirts I own in my closet. All meticulously identical: heavy-weight cotton, regular cut and tubular. An obsession born after having watched “American Psycho” where the protagonist, Patrick Bateman, has one of the tidiest closets I’ve ever seen.

The white tee is the corner-stone of a man’s wardrobe. One can wear it all year-round, maybe it be plainly or under a sweater, the combinations are infinite. The search of a “perfect white t-shirt” is a challenging quest, one we have embarked on.

We were looking for tubular t-shirts – with no side seems – made in Europe. The German brand Merz b. Schwanen has stepped up and accepted this challenge, a brand known for its undeniable quality since 1911.



 

History of Merz b. Schwanen

The Swan brand was founded in 1911 by Balthasar Merz in the Swabian Alps, a mountain range in the Southwest of Germany.

It was not until 2011 that the brand was reborn form its ashes thanks to buyers Gitta and Peter Plotniki. The couple had bought an old henley on a Berlin flea market a while back, it was tubular and had triangular tips at the armpits. They eventually found out it was a rare piece dating from 1911!

 
 
 
 
Le henley en questionThe 1911 henley

Le henley en question

The 1911 henley

 

The couple was increasingly curious about this henley and retraced its history back to Rudolf Loder, the last textile manufacturer to own the famous « loop-wheel » machines.

Today, Merz b. Schwanen is the only European manufacturer to own so-called TsuriAmi-Ki machines. As explained in our article dedicated to these machines, "tsuri" means « hanging », "ami" « knit » and "ki" « machine ». Indeed, these machines have the particularity of being “suspended”. They are usually hung on wooden beams and knit what resemble large tubular socks. These machines are highly sought after today, other machines used today cannot reach the level of quality obtained by TsuriAmi-Ki machines.

Les fameuses machines « TsuriAmi-Ki »  Famous “TsuriAmi-Ki machines”

Les fameuses machines « TsuriAmi-Ki »
Famous “TsuriAmi-Ki machines”

 

REVIEW

For this article we tested two t-shirts from the 215 range, made in Germany on the loopwheel machines mentioned above. The first one is off-white and the second is indigo dyed.


Why an ecru t-shirt you may ask? To honor the t-shirts’ roots, initially an undergarment. This natural color adds real versatility worn alone, under a shirt – buttoned or unbuttoned. It’s a two-yarn, 7,8 Oz weight (200 grams) and made of a 100% organic cotton. A true masterpiece to wear, extremely comfortable and comforting.
 


The “215” model has a longer cut than other T-shirts we may usually wear – as it mimics a 1960s cut. We should point out the garment does shrink a few centimeters when washed; nevertheless, we advise you to opt for your usual size. Moreover, Merz b. Schwanen has developed a very comprehensive guide for washing its products. The brand has also developed a special non-aggressive detergent to wash clothes in complete serenity.

 
Aujourd’hui, Merz b. Schwanen est le seul fabricant européen à posséder des machines dites TsuriAmi-Ki.

Today, Merz b. Schwanen is the only European manufacturer to own so-called TsuriAmi-Ki machines.
 
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A splash of indigo

There are many garments dyed with indigo. Tubular t-shirts, much less. Merz b. Schwanen has teamed up with Blue Print Amsterdam to make this dream a reality. This creative design studio, obsessed with denim and indigo, was created in the Netherlands in 2006 by Celia Geraedts. The Studio was born after its’ founder had returned from a trip to Japan where she discovered the ancient craft of natural indigo-dyeing. A prestigious know-how that allowed Blue Print Amsterdam to collaborate with Levi’s Red Tab, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Levi’s Made & Crafted, Frans Boone Store or Asahi, a Japanese sneakers brand with vulcanized soles.

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The indigo-dyed t-shirt is a real marvel to glance at. Once worn, we feel part of a century-old craft, a real honor. We had never worn one before, the t-shirt has a rougher touch than its ecru counterpart but remains absolutely pleasant to wear. Indigo t-shirts irrigate the Japanese market, making them much harder to find in Europe, even more so made in Europe and tubular!

Fun fact, indigo is actually first green, when it comes out of the dyeing pot. After that, it turns to the deep indigo. The indigo color is made from the leaves of the Indigofera suffruticosa. The highest quality you can use to treat these textiles.

It has to be noted, the t-shirt will achieve a beautiful patina after successive washes, like a good old pair of jeans.

This indigo t-shirt can become your go-to t-shirt: it is extremely simple to integrate to your wardrobe rotation and will give a beautiful look to your outfits: «a splash of color». 

Futhemore the brand offers countless designs and fits. A detailed grid makes it possible for anyone to find what they are looking for.

 
 
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Sometimes, one does not need to state the obvious. Merz b. Schwanen’s products fall into this category.

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Heimat - Turtleneck Review

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Texte : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Thomas M.
 

The German word Heimat is one of those words that loses it's real meaning once translated. Even in German it is difficult to put its meaning into words.
Heimat evokes the feeling of a homeland, a familiar place, a feeling of belonging or well-being in short comforting elements.

Why does one chose to wear a brand of clothing rather than another? I frequently ask myself that question. I think that one element of the answer would be to first consider the garment intrinsically, its functionality and its design.

Then comes the history of the brand in question. When I wrote about the feeling of Einfuhlung in my Valstar piece, it was clear that my quest for my sense of clothing was taking root.

The German brand Heimat manages to transpose this feeling into its sailor inspired knitwear. Hats, Scarfs but especially Sweaters, here is our take on their now legendary "U Boat" Turtleneck in Forest Green.

Let’s have a closer look.


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A story about threads

Sometimes words are better than a well-drawn picture. This is why we interviewed Christian Hofmann, the founder of Heimat.

How and when did Heimat come to exist?

Heimat was started in 2016 after an 11-year career at Ralph Lauren where my last position held was Director of Merchandising Europe for Polo and RRL.

My whole life I wanted to start my own fashion brand. Do things the way I want them to be done and put my stamp on a creative project.

The Word Heimat is a German phrase with no translation. Heimat is a place where you feel the most comfortable, a place that evokes a sense of belonging or security. Sometimes Heimat can be just the feeling that's triggered by a smell or moment of calm you get whilst you do what you love doing. For example, the feeling a surfer has when he in the ocean or a mountaineer when he reaches the peak. The aim of our clothes is to trigger that same Heimat feeling. We want people to feel safe and secure in our garments and feel at home wherever they might be going.

Where do you draw your inspiration from?

Our clothes are universal but we are proud of the German heritage and craftmanship. Germany is known for high-level engineering and great quality all over the world and that’s what Heimat products are about.

I love things that are simple and made for a purpose and are stripped of any unnecessary design features. Hence why a lot of inspirations come from traditional workwear or military garments.

My main inspirations are the outdoors and lifestyle sports like surfing, hiking, or just riding your motorbike but in the end anything

What do you find in a knitwear garment you don't find elsewhere?

We use the best wool which pays back in the quality of our products. You can wear our sweaters or hats for years and the wool will not pill or rip, which is an advantage against other traditionally used materials.

The fit is tailored to the heavy knitting. It will fit tight to the body when you first put it on but after a couple of wear's it softens up and perfectly adjusts to your body shape, similar to a fresh pair of jeans.

Have a look at the perfect finishing details of our garments, the cuffs, hem, or the crown of our hats, which ensures it does not stick up on your head.

Due to our supply chain we are a very sustainable business. The little carbon footprint we create is off set with CO2 projects in Brazil and Africa. We are a small team and our suppliers and B2B clients are partners/friends not just customers, if they do well we do well. We want to have fun and feel positive about what we are doing.

What is the next step for Heimat ?

Just recently we added some beautiful new socks (Die Wandersocke) made of the same virgin wool as our Sweaters. We have some great new items in the pipeline and we’ve worked on some fantastic quality merino which really will complement our assortment. We don't want to keep adding categories unless we feel it is right for the brand and is in line with our ethos.

Thanks Christian!


 
 
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A turtleneck to cope with cold weather and remain stylish

Every winter, I go in search of the perfect sweater. Every winter, I come to the same conclusion: there is a perfect sweater only for a given situation. I discovered Heimat a year ago, through an Instagram post by Beige Habilleur. I had never really seen or touched a turtleneck knitted this intricate way*, tight and rugged.

The turtleneck – or rollneck for our fellow English readers – is not for everyone. Or rather, there's a turtleneck for every neck. Take Heimat's: it is hand finished, rolls up and unrolls efficiently to the desired height. If it is too cold: unroll it. If it is warmer: roll it up. Same goes for the cuffs. I was conquered by this versatility right away.

The sweater is made in Germany. The sleeves and collar are attached by hand. Made of 100% virgin wool, the sweater is heavy. Nevertheless, it is advisable for you to choose your usual size, knowing the knitting will loosen a bit and make for a perfect fit along wears. A sweater that lives!

A turtleneck that makes me – fittingly – think of the submariners worn by American GIs. Heimat's strength is to offer a classic men's wardrobe while adapting the fit and offering different colors. This model is available in blue, yellow, ecru, black or orange.

This forest green beautifully illuminates an outfit. A sweater that I have been able to wear in the city as well as in the countryside, fitting perfectly in both habitats.

We recommend wearing this sweater with chromexcel chukka boots, fitted here – a Crown Northampton model, review coming soon – a selvedge pair of jeans from Superstitch and a reversible versatile overcoat like the one offered by L'Impermeabile and available at The Coolest Man You Know.

A great classic

Eventually, Heimat offers a wardrobe staple every man should own. One every man should own and care for. Robust and simple at the same time, the Heimat U-boat turtleneck will certainly last me a lifetime and make me feel at home every time I wear it.


*mostly with half cardigan stitch, in french we call it “côtes perlées”

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