PML Clothing
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PML Clothing
Comfortable garments made in Italy in limited quantities
On December 28, 1895, at 14 Boulevard des Capucines in Paris, in the Indian Room of the Grand Café, the Lumière brothers held their first film screening: "Sortie de l'usine Lumière à Lyon". The spectators discovered the word “cinema” for the first time. This invention revolutionized the end of the century, which had already been marked by the creation of photography in 1839 by Nicéphore Niepce and Daguerre. Image takes a predominant place in society, the press at that time even feared that the movies were going to "kill" theater and especially painting. However, this "Seventh Art" only completed the already established ones, it became an unavoidable medium of expression.
Strong of this heritage, this new means of expression irrigated fashion while channeling it. Like painting with its classifications, cinema also has its own; thus, feature films, short films and documentaries cohabit. The latter claims to show reality "without filter", an approach that particularly resonates to us as it erases everything superfluous. In this line, what could be more exciting - in our opinion - than to combine documentary and menswear? Gianluca Migliarotti, aka Kiddandy, the director of the most beautiful documentaries on sartorial art - I Colori Di Antonio, O'mast or E poi c'è Napoli - strikes again, but this time by creating his own clothing brand, PML. After the Bespoke trousers at "Pommella Napoli", Gianluca tackles a broader and more accessible wardrobe, from coats to two-pocket jackets and polo shirts.
We are honored - to say the least - to review two overshirts, both available on the PML’s website, as well as a brief interview with Gianluca.
Before we get to our review, we are pleased to unveil an exclusive interview with Gianluca.
You have directed several documentaries resulting in true masterpieces, including I Colori Di Antonio, O’mast and E poi c'è Napoli. What made you create your brand?
It all stems from my experience as a film director and my passion for quality clothing. A director must have an overall vision and a strong imaginative ability. When you shoot some scenes you already have an idea of how they will be edited, with what music, what emotion you want to convey to the viewer; it's a very similar process that happens for me with a fabric. Often it all starts from there: you see a fabric that strikes you and you touch it, you look at it and try to imagine what could come out of it. In short, being able to remain open-minded and creative, knowing how to play around what you have in front of you.
In a world where everything is goes faster and faster, how did you choose the clothes you wanted to produce with PML ?
Being in a hurry, you can make choices that are already in you and that you are sure of, but if they are not long-standing desires they are not very exciting. Let's say that commercially the world goes very fast, but we are part of those small brands that take the time to grow as they like, making choices as sustainable as possible, doing research or sometimes finding vintage fabric stock. Style comes from experiences, from needs. What I produce is what I use myself and want to share with others.
Where are PML clothes made ? Only in Naples ?
Some products are made in Naples, others in Milan or in Sicily. Each garment has its’ own special workforce need. Everything is made in Italy, of course.
What are your sources of inspiration for PML ?
I am constantly observing life and the world around me. I admire the style of many people and learn from everyone. Observing everyday life and its needs is very important to me. I have particular admiration for those people who in their daily lives cannot do without a certain aesthetic and add an item, a detail, to their look even on normal or particularly busy days. Clothing is a language and I find that those who manage to preserve and take care of a certain aesthetic, without overdoing it, of course, communicate love, care and beauty to the world. In short, people are my sources of inspiration.
What is your favorite item of clothing in your closet right now?
I don't have one in particular, it depends on the day, but lately my Palazzi flannel overshirt is a must, versatile and comfortable, but also dressy with its green melange, really beautiful. Yesterday I picked up my last jacket from my tailor and friend Ciro Zizolfi, who with his son Andrea has been making the most beautiful and true Neapolitan jackets for years now, incredible quality, in a special selected fabric by Fox; I think it could easily become my must-have of the moment, it's a wonder.
Finally, our readers will kill us if we don't ask the question: do you have a project in mind or (in production) of a future documentary?
Actually I've been working on it for some time now, but with little continuity. It is a research in Milanese aesthetics, known to few or not noticed because it is sober and not shouted, but of great depth. It's not an easy job, but it's one I'm very interested in.
Thank you so much Gianluca !
For this article, we have at our disposal two overshirts. One in green wool flannel from Fox Brothers – the special edition "Palazzi" model - and the other in an alpaca wool.
THE "PALAZZI"
Let's start with the first one. The jacket has a regular cut, with two patch chest pockets as well as hidden side pockets. The fabric is a thick wool flannel from Fox and overall the style is beautiful. We particularly love the collar ! On this note, we leave it voluntarily up, not only for the photoshoot but surely by habit.
Fox Brothers is one of our favorite fabric manufacturers. A shirt, a jacket or a pair of trousers made in one of their wools immediately captures our attention. It's a real marvel. When we saw this overshirt was made in one of their fabrics, we were immediately captivated.
Upon reception, we were not disappointed. The color is not your typical forest green, it’s beautiful in the daylight. This fabric is woven especially for PML by Fox Brothers. The name refers to Alessandro Palazzi, manager of the Duke bar in London, and customer at Pomella Napoli. One of his trousers was made in this wool selected by Gianluca. Upon seeing the Alessandro Palazzi pants, Douglas Corbeaux, owner of Fox Brothers, and a friend of Gianluca's, suggested that the fabric be made exclusively for Pomella Napoli and PML. In homage to Alessandro Palazzi, PML called it "Palazzi" flannel.
The flannel is amazing. It has a soft feel, very comfortable to wear.
The overshirt is fitted with two side pockets and two chest pockets. Yes, the side pockets are hidden on the side of the overshirt. They are almost invisible...and we love it! By positioning them there the silhouette is much more streamlined. As for the two chest pockets, they are deep enough to put your wallet, phone or keys.
It's an overshirt that reminds us a lot of the American CPO army overshirt. The difference? Gianluca's is made in Italy in a beautiful flannel. It may not have lived through the war, but it will protect you from the cold while looking stylish.
If we had to find one or two flaws, we would say that in our opinion it is a shame that there are no sleeve closure buttons and that the cuff closure button is probably a little too close to the edge, making its closure less convenient. Finally, if the hidden pockets are very nice, they can sometimes be less practical to use, located a little too far back.
In conclusion, this jacket overshirt is a real must-have piece. Its color, the fabric, its sturdiness and especially the collar are really a home-run. We wear it over a shirt, a sweater, under a balmacaan coat. In short, it is one of our favorite pieces for this Winter.
THE ALPACA OVERSHIRT
This model has the same characteristics as the "Palazzi" overshirt. The only difference is the fabric, made in a super-soft alpaca fabric. A luxurious material making this overshirt incredibly warm. This type of fabric is not so easy to find in the Ready-to-Wear. We particularly like the softness of the fabric, the herringbone pattern and its very soft touch.
Looking at our pictures, you might have the impression that this is some kind of tweed or Shetland fabric that itches or stings. But no, the fabric is really soft!
And like the green overshirt, the jacket interior is very neatly finished. It is semi-lined with a cotton flannel from the very famous English weaver Thomas Mason. Another one of our favorite weavers!
This jacket is offered in limited quantities, so don’t sleep on it!
For information, Marcos is 1m70, 60kg and opted for a size S.
To sum up, what better way to say it than in the words of Gianluca:
"Life is about traveling, meeting people, observing. I want men to have fun and feel comfortable with their look. I want them to express themselves. PML is my project searching for something special that I can share with my people. No fake myths, no exaggerations. It’s what I wear too. This project, wether ready-to-wear or made-to-Order, is all about quality. Everything is made in small batches with vintage or rare fabrics, old stock buttons and sewn with care. It’s my kid."
We strongly invite you to discover the rest of PML’s pieces, some of them will become for sure indispensables.
