Valstar Milano

Note : we asked the brand for the garment in exchange for a full review.

Valstar Milano

Blouson suédé Valstarino

Texte : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Valstar ; Thomas M

Introduction

In 1873, the German philosopher Robert Vischer coined the term "Einfühlung" in his thesis on aesthetics. This neologism literally means "empathy", but it also covers the feeling of belonging, a sensation of "indulging in an emotion". The term was later popularized by philosopher Theodor Lipps, admired by Freud, who detailed the faculty for a human being to appreciate something only if he really projects himself with it. According to Lipps, it is imperative to really feel the object, to understand how it was shaped by the craftsman and the meaning he conveys in it. The concept of "Einfühlung" thus encompasses the possibility for a human being to feel an internal emotion and share it with his environment.

To some degree, our clothes should make us happy: if we don't feel a small flame when we wear them, they will end up in the meanders of our wardrobes.

My Valstarino jacket makes me feel this "einfühlung" when I wear it.


Let’s have a closer look.

History

Valstar was was born in Milano in 1911 and it was popularized by the biggest Hollywood stars such as actor Humphrey Bogart - notably in Casablanca in which he wears a trench-coat from the Italian brand. Valstar instantaneously rose to stardom.

At its beginnings, Valstar production was mainly dedicated to high-end rainwear. The ambition is always the same: to create the best possible clothing, in the most beautiful materials.

In 1935, a new jacket was launched: the Valstarino, literally "little Valstar". Directly inspired by the mythical A1 jacket of the U.S. Army designed in 1927, it differs from the latter in its fabrics. Fashioned from a very supple leather, velvet or lambskin, the Valstarino nevertheless retains the buttons on the front, patch pockets and cuffs. The collar and lower back are knitted wool.

The Valstarino is an essential part of Italian history and craftsmanship: so illustrious it was named in the book "Novantanove icone. Da segno a sogno", at rank 11, as one of the 99 Italian iconic objects; alongside the Fiat 500, the Vespa, the Bialetti coffee maker, to name a few! A true recognition that undoubtedly explains its success in Japan today. The jacket has meanwhile been revisited compared to its historical version of 1935, especially in terms of colors, cut and materials. The logo has also undergone a renaissance, since it is inspired by the one used to sponsor the Italian national soccer team, during the 1978 World Cup.

REVIEW

When you put on a Valstarino, you immediately feel like you belong to an inner circle. The jacket smells fantastic, like a leather jacket should.

Extremely comfortable to wear, it is slim and short but is meant to be worn this way. It is therefore preferable to try it on before any purchase is made.

This jacket is worthy of the biggest “bad boys” in the film industry - McQueen, Brando - but we wanted to get as far away from this image as possible by showcasing it in a very simple outfit.

I combined it here with my Shetland "Kelly green" Laurence J. Smith sweater, an off-white corduroy trouser from Uniqlo, a pair of cream socks and my Alden "color 8 cordovan" penny loafers 986. A winning combo.

I have to be honest, I was reluctant in owning a leather jacket at first, precisely because of the image it may – falsely – convey. The Valstarino allows for a smooth transitioning in style: if like me, you're not used to wearing leather, simplicity is the key word.

I particularly like the design and the cut, which gives the blouson a certain "military-urban" look. It's a real pleasure to fasten and unfasten the buttons of this jacket: the visual effect will not be the same depending on whether the jacket is completely unbuttoned, buttoned with two or three buttons. I also easily wear my jacket in tailoring, thus breaking the formal look the outfit might express: I’d wear a high-waisted pair of flannel trousers, a beautiful piece of knitwear and my Alden penny loafers.

The Valstarino is like a good buddy you can count on, it will never disappoint you.

A soft suede jacket requires minimal maintenance. Here are our tips:

• Waterproof the jacket with a waterproofing spray (Saphir Invulner - Gold Medal for example)

• Store your jacket on a hanger, preferably away from direct sunlight so as not to damage the suede.

• If your suede jacket got stained, don't panic, the following miracle product is the solution: the "Super Gommadin" always from Saphir Médaille d'Or.

• It is also advisable to take your jacket to a leather master-cleaner. Caring for your blouson will depend on how often you wear it.

Maybe the "star" in Valstar is not such a coincidence after all.