Note : we asked the brand for the two garments in exchange for a full review.

Texte : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Merz b Schwanen ; Thomas M.  

20. That is the number of white t-shirts I own in my closet. All meticulously identical: heavy-weight cotton, regular cut and tubular. An obsession born after having watched “American Psycho” where the protagonist, Patrick Bateman, has one of the tidiest closets I’ve ever seen.

The white tee is the corner-stone of a man’s wardrobe. One can wear it all year-round, maybe it be plainly or under a sweater, the combinations are infinite. The search of a “perfect white t-shirt” is a challenging quest, one we have embarked on.

We were looking for tubular t-shirts – with no side seems – made in Europe. The German brand Merz b. Schwanen has stepped up and accepted this challenge, a brand known for its undeniable quality since 1911.

History of Merz b. Schwanen

The Swan brand was founded in 1911 by Balthasar Merz in the Swabian Alps, a mountain range in the Southwest of Germany.

It was not until 2011 that the brand was reborn form its ashes thanks to buyers Gitta and Peter Plotniki. The couple had bought an old henley on a Berlin flea market a while back, it was tubular and had triangular tips at the armpits. They eventually found out it was a rare piece dating from 1911!

The couple was increasingly curious about this henley and retraced its history back to Rudolf Loder, the last textile manufacturer to own the famous « loop-wheel » machines.

Today, Merz b. Schwanen is the only European manufacturer to own so-called TsuriAmi-Ki machines. As explained in our article dedicated to these machines, "tsuri" means « hanging », "ami" « knit » and "ki" « machine ». Indeed, these machines have the particularity of being “suspended”. They are usually hung on wooden beams and knit what resemble large tubular socks. These machines are highly sought after today, other machines used today cannot reach the level of quality obtained by TsuriAmi-Ki machines.

REVIEW

For this article we tested two t-shirts from the 215 range, made in Germany on the loopwheel machines mentioned above. The first one is off-white and the second is indigo dyed.

Why an ecru t-shirt you may ask? To honor the t-shirts’ roots, initially an undergarment. This natural color adds real versatility worn alone, under a shirt – buttoned or unbuttoned. It’s a two-yarn, 7,8 Oz weight (200 grams) and made of a 100% organic cotton. A true masterpiece to wear, extremely comfortable and comforting. 

The “215” model has a longer cut than other T-shirts we may usually wear – as it mimics a 1960s cut. We should point out the garment does shrink a few centimeters when washed; nevertheless, we advise you to opt for your usual size. Moreover, Merz b. Schwanen has developed a very comprehensive guide for washing its products. The brand has also developed a special non-aggressive detergent to wash clothes in complete serenity.

A splash of indigo

There are many garments dyed with indigo. Tubular t-shirts, much less. Merz b. Schwanen has teamed up with Blue Print Amsterdam to make this dream a reality. This creative design studio, obsessed with denim and indigo, was created in the Netherlands in 2006 by Celia Geraedts. The Studio was born after its’ founder had returned from a trip to Japan where she discovered the ancient craft of natural indigo-dyeing. A prestigious know-how that allowed Blue Print Amsterdam to collaborate with Levi’s Red Tab, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Levi’s Made & Crafted, Frans Boone Store or Asahi, a Japanese sneakers brand with vulcanized soles.

The indigo-dyed t-shirt is a real marvel to glance at. Once worn, we feel part of a century-old craft, a real honor. We had never worn one before, the t-shirt has a rougher touch than its ecru counterpart but remains absolutely pleasant to wear. Indigo t-shirts irrigate the Japanese market, making them much harder to find in Europe, even more so made in Europe and tubular!

Fun fact, indigo is actually first green, when it comes out of the dyeing pot. After that, it turns to the deep indigo. The indigo color is made from the leaves of the Indigofera suffruticosa. The highest quality you can use to treat these textiles.

It has to be noted, the t-shirt will achieve a beautiful patina after successive washes, like a good old pair of jeans.

This indigo t-shirt can become your go-to t-shirt: it is extremely simple to integrate to your wardrobe rotation and will give a beautiful look to your outfits: «a splash of color». 

Futhemore the brand offers countless designs and fits. A detailed grid makes it possible for anyone to find what they are looking for.

Sometimes, one does not need to state the obvious. Merz b. Schwanen’s products fall into this category.