Note: At our request, Marinella agreed to send us the tie that you will discover in this article.

In an increasingly less formal world, it seems incongruous to wear a tie. Over time, this accessory has gradually become an emblem of sophistication among others. It's hard to defend wearing a tie at work when all your colleagues adopt open shirt collars - collars that are often far too short and that bend inwards - a pair of jeans and a very slim-fit blazer. A minority still wear a tie, sometimes out of obligation but mostly by choice. I fall into this second category. 

If you are not familiar with E. Marinella, you will discover the essence of tie-making. For those who know, you will only be able to nod and enjoy our photos. 

Let’s have a closer look. 

A Neapolitan Italianità proudly claimed

Much has been written and said about Naples - Napule in Neapolitan dialect. The Parthenopian city is a concentrate of tailor-made art in constant turmoil. Probably because of the nearby Vesuvius, which watches over rather than threatens the city. Those who have already had the chance to travel to this city will attest to its special atmosphere. 

In Naples, the inhabitants are not Italians, but Neapolitans firstly. The dialect and the Napoletano way of life irrigate daily relations. Naples is a concentrate of culture, football and tailoring know-how. 

At 287 Via Riviera Chiaia nestles a more than century-old shop, a true Neapolitan institution: E. Marinella. Although the store is only 20m2, its influence is worldwide. 

The house offers a selection of shirts, scarves, pocket squares, scarves, sweaters, berets, shoes and especially ties. An exceptional choice. The house was founded on June 26, 1914 when Don Eugenio realized his vision of a store that would be a mirror of the most elegant, inspired by the English Savile Row. If the overused term "sprezzatura" has been analysed and misunderstood, Eugenio Marinella defends sobriety in elegance: "never wear a sky-blue shirt at night or a bright red tie" are part of his precepts. 

Thanks to an article by the novelist and journalist Matilde Serao at the beginning of the century, Marinella's house gained importance and aroused Prince Humbert of Savoy’s curiosity, who personally went to the shop to buy elegant ties for his social outings. His uncle, Emmanuelle Filiberto, Duke of Aosta, used to spend whole afternoons there. 

Manufacturing

If we have not yet had the chance to visit the Marinella workshops, the brand is present every year at the Bon Marché Paris Rive Gauche during the Christmas holidays. Maurizio Marinella travels regularly in person, accompanied by two seamstresses who make custom-made ties on the spot.
On this occasion, we were able to see how a Marinella tie is assembled in the best possible way. As an example, the structure of the tie - the seam that closes the tie along its length - is assembled by hand. This is the only way to guarantee an exceptional hand and longevity of the tie. 

A piece of fabric from the E collection. Marinella Archivio

The E. Marinella Archivio collection is a time machine. It allows you to (re)discover fabrics from the past. The opportunity to get your hands on real gems, treasures waiting to be unearthed. It is no chance the most illustrious men of the century wear them around their necks. 

The archivio brings together fabrics produced in the UK from the 1930s to the 1980s. The archive has over sixty designs in over two hundred colors that add to the house's already extensive collection. 

The archivio collection is therefore a real gift from E. Marinella, a gift to be worn without moderation proudly around the neck. 

I'm wearing a Vintage Marinella tie made from a fabric dating back to 1948. I wear it with a Prologue jacket and pants and a Camessi* shirt. The tie is a beautiful burgundy color with cream-colored medallions. It enlightens an outfit without obscuring it. 

*reviews to be discovered soon. 

Text : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Thomas M.