Note : we asked the brand for a discount in exchange for a full review.

“One of a pair of coverings for your feet, usually made of a strong material such as leather, with a thick leather or plastic sole and usually a heel". This is how the Cambridge Dictionary defines the word "shoe". There is no equivalent of the French word “soulier” in the English language, perhaps the expression “dress shoe” might convey best the sens of this fine word. “Soulier” – now scarcely used – first appeared in the French language in the 13th century. Over the centuries, the term semantically found its way into everyday expressions for instance, "être dans ses petits souliers" means "to be uncomfortable or find oneself in an embarrassing situation"; " mettre son pied dans les souliers de tout le monde " refers to the fact of interfering in everyone's business. Also, "n’avoir pas de souliers" is the symbol of a state of complete destitution; finally, "mourir dans ses souliers" is the result of a sudden death. The term "souliers” seems to be intimately linked to the moods and habits of a society, as if to describe it fundamentally. I remember the first time I preferred to use the word "souliers" for a "pair of shoes". It was 5 years ago, my father offered me my first pair of Crockett & Jones. A brogue derby in brown grained leather and a rubber sole. The "Pembroke" model, for connoisseurs. Year after year, my collection grew and so did my ultimate desire: to acquire a pair in cordovan leather, the famous "cordovan shell". A leather from the horse's hindquarters that is less than 0.5 m2 wide. Then I discovered the "Harvard" model in cordovan from Crockett & Jones, a completely “Ivy”-looking soulier. 

Let’s have a closer look. 

Crockett & Jones, Northampton and Paris: a winning trio

James Crockett and Charles Jones founded Crockett & Jones in 1879 in Northampton, the cradle of English bootmaking. However, it was not until 1998 that the first French boutique - the second in the world after Jermyn Street in London - opened its doors in Paris, at 14 Rue Chauveau-Lagarde, a stone's throw from the Madeleine. The 160m2 store displayed the double "Hand Grade" and "Main Line" collection.

Thomas and I meet up at the Madeleine store, on a beautiful Autumn day. A muffled atmosphere transpires as soon as we open the door, we understand we are entering a "club". The dark brown leather armchairs and sofas echo the beautiful woodwork transpiring an authentic British store from the past. Shoes are everywhere. Icing on the cake, there really is something for everyone: Oxfords, derbies, moccasins with monk-straps, boots, tassel loafers, penny loafers and even slippers. Crockett & Jones embodies this Europeanized "British phlegm": the house even dresses James Bond and his French equivalent, OSS 117 !

The “Harvard" penny loafer: cordovan at your feet

I walk to the back of the store where the coveted model is displayed: the "Harvard" penny loafer in Cordovan leather. Having already a pair of penny loafers from Crockett & Jones - the "Boston" model in grained brown leather - I ask to try on the same size, 6.5 UK. These two moccasins have an identical "last" - the shape of the tip of the shoe - the 314. A rounder shape than its 341 or 375 counterparts for example.

The cordovan used by Crockett & Jones is from the American Horween Tannery, founded in 1905 in Chicago. Very few tanneries in the world produce cordovan - etymologically, "cordovan" comes from the Andalusian city "Cordoba", the first place of manufacture of this horse leather already in the sixteenth century - Horween is undoubtedly best known for its dark purple-brown beautiful cordovan color.

The Harvard penny loafer is of Goodyear-welt construction, has a leather sole and an unlined interior. The pair is remarkably comfortable from the very first try, like indoor slippers! No future blisters will ruin my feet and that is an important point to consider. Note however that Cordovan leather will only loosen up a little, so it is crucial to feel comfortable from the start.

I wear penny loafers quite frequently, I don't think they are exclusively reserved for formal wear. That is why I chose an outfit with a pair of white jeans, cream socks, an ecru turtleneck and a Teba jacket. The jeans and socks are from Uniqlo, the ecru sweater from Danish brand Andersen Andersen - teaser - and the Prince of Wales Teba jacket from Justo Gimeno through Beige Habilleur. With an outfit like this one, I wanted to try on subtle degrees of white. Also, when one wishes to wear a white top and bottom, one just has to choose two different shades of white, hence avoiding the "full-white outfit".

The dark brownish Cordovan leather color - sometimes tending towards purple - makes it possible to effortlessly combine this type of shoe in any outfit. Cordovan is a rare and therefore expensive leather. A pair like this one will thus be "an investment piece". I simply advise you to try them on before purchase to see how they feel on your feet. The “Harvard” could easily be the quintessential cordovan penny loafers one has been seeking all along.

My personal experience leads me to say that cordovan “souliers” have no equivalent. Eventually, I prefer to use the word "souliers" rather than simply “shoes" when describing beautiful, well-made pieces that last over time. Harvard penny loafers fall into these categories.

After all, doesn’t James Bonds’ footwear deserve to be called “souliers” ?

My routine for caring cordovan shoes – or “souliers”

Cordovan shoes are sacred to some...Much has been written and said about this beautiful horsehide leather.

My routine revolves around 3 steps:

• I start by brushing the shoes, removing dirt and dust. A genuine horsehair brush is preferable. I usually repeat this step continuously and stop here as cordovan leather does not need much maintenance: regular brushing is enough to maintain it effectively. However, always use shoetrees inside your shoes to guarantee their shape and longevity.

• I only apply the Cordovan Special Saphire Cream very rarely and very sparingly. Otherwise, to make the pair shine, here is a little trick: I use old nylon tights and I rub the whole pair following a circular movement.

• To remove small scratches that might appear, I use a somewhat shamanic instrument: the famous deer bone. One simply has to rub the bone on the surfaces to be treated or roll it on the front of the shoe. I find it effective but you can of course do without it, no doubt that this device contributes in the whole “Cordovan folklore”. For such an accessory, consider 20 to 30 Euros. Mine is from the Scandinavian eshop with the unpronounceable name: Skoaktiebolaget.

If you notice the appearance of a whitish substance after a few wears, don't worry! It is a part of the liquor that breathes out of the leather during the natural flexing of the shoe and its wear. This substance can be easily cleaned with a dry or damp cloth, then brushed: nothing more!

However, I advise you not to wear your shoes in wet or rainy weather, even though the leather is very resistant. Cordovan leather acquires a beautiful patina over time, just let it do its job.